We chose to visit Gran Canaria after Fuerteventura, even though we’d initially considered Lanzarote: we decided to move from the arid, sandy expanses to more varied landscapes. So we settled on the former, drawn by a location we’d long been curious about. We booked ten days in a large, lush hotel, probably one of the best in the area, and in a fairly convenient location.
The flight lasted just over four hours, and upon arrival, we were given a rental car with an automatic transmission instead of a manual one. This unexpected turn of events turned out to be an opportunity: it was our first chance to practice this type of driving. We arrived at the hotel exhausted but struck by the setting: courtyards with water, lots of greenery, almost a small natural park. The pleasant surprise didn’t last long, because by the second day, we realized we weren’t exactly in the place we’d imagined.
Arrival at the hotel: comfortable room and lots of greenery in the internal courtyard.
The room, facing north among the valleys, received only two hours of sun a day. The rest of the time, it was bathed in reflected light, with the constant noise from the pools (even though we had selected a “garden view”) of another hotel across the street, which detracted from any sense of relaxation. But this could be considered a mistake on our part when booking.
Unfortunately, Puerto de Mogán, which we thought would be quiet, turned out to be chaotic and very crowded. Things didn’t improve in the evening: finding a table at the port was almost impossible due to the crowds that filled the streets and bars both in the port and in the inner part of the town. The sea water (or rather, the ocean) was nothing special, although we already knew this. So, by the second day, we realized we’d probably chosen the wrong area.
The town of Puerto de Mogán: charming but very crowded after the morning.
We therefore reduced our stay from eleven to seven days, organizing our destinations and stops to visit each day. Having opted not to choose packages such as half-board or all-inclusive, we were fairly independent from the hotel, although a small stove would have been handy for preparing something ourselves instead of resorting to ready-made meals or sandwiches.
During the week, we visited several picturesque places, such as Mogán, Aldea, Teror, and Tejeda. While we appreciated the atmosphere, they weren’t really our style: hilly and mountainous landscapes aren’t what we seek on vacation, preferring beach life or nearby. One of Gran Canaria’s peculiarities is the ever-changing vegetation (which is why it’s also known as the miniature continent). In the south, you’ll find almost tropical landscapes, which become almost Mediterranean as you climb higher. The north, on the other hand, is more humid, lush, and green, at times similar to northern Italy. However, the island is overall subtropical, and this is reflected in the variety of environments.
The hilly hinterland of the southwest area: dry landscapes that offer serenity.
Unfortunately, the tourist areas of the southwest and south have deeply disappointed us: Puerto Rico, Taurito, Meloneras, Maspalomas, and the surrounding areas are enormous concrete structures, built with no regard for the landscape, designed solely to accommodate as many tourists as possible and provide them with countless shops on their doorstep. Playa de Amadores is beautiful for its light sands and blue water, but overcrowded to the point of taking away any sense of relaxation. The dunes of Maspalomas would be evocative if they weren’t surrounded by a forest of buildings that drastically diminishes their charm. It’s no coincidence that a resident friend confirmed to us that Canarians avoid the south, believing it to be irreparably ruined by mass tourism.
The touristy concrete blocks of the south of the island. The photos are even too kind.
Las Palmas also left us perplexed. The historic center of Vegueta is pleasant, but the rest of the city seemed cluttered, with suffocating buildings. Furthermore, we experienced the famous “panza de burro,” the gray days that hit the north: it’s impressive how the island’s climate and appearance can change in the space of just a few kilometers. As for activities, there’s plenty to choose from: boating, diving, hiking, the Poema del Mar aquarium, Sioux City Park with live shows, and various water parks. However, many options seem geared more toward families than those seeking an authentic experience.
A view of the capital Las Palmas beyond the historic center and the usual snapshots.
Another weakness was the food in tourist areas. Prices were high and the quality was often mediocre: the seafood pizzas made with canned tuna were emblematic (even in places run by Italians). Overall, we had the feeling that many restaurants near tourist facilities tended to show off, exceeding the fair value for money.
The village of Teror, at 500 m above sea, is picturesque and reflects the island’s unique character.
Ultimately, the comparison with Fuerteventura is inevitable: there’s plenty of concrete there, too, but the island remains much more livable and pleasant. Gran Canaria didn’t convince us, and we don’t plan on returning, much less imagining a life there. We now consider the south to be compromised by unbridled tourism, the east does not have much to offer in terms of landscape other than services, and the north is too humid and cloudy for our tastes. Perhaps only the hilly and mountainous areas retain their authenticity and charm, but those who choose to live there have to forgo a vibrant sea: the beaches are few and crowded, and the water isn’t as exciting as that of Fuerteventura.
Sioux City Park manages to immerse the visitor in a Western movie setting.
Everyone has their own preferences: we ‘ve realized that we’re looking for holidays that combine sea, history, adventure, and relaxation — exactly what the Tremiti Islands and Fuerteventura have given us. That’s why we’re looking with interest at Lanzarote and La Graciosa as our next destinations.
Gran Canaria’s final surprise arrived just before we left, with the calima: a fine mist of sand that filtered the sunlight, creating an almost foggy atmosphere. Unlike what we experienced in Fuerteventura, it wasn’t like having a hair dryer running in front of your face. No discomfort, just a mesmerizing effect and a warm, almost tropical night.
The sand that the calima brings obscures the sun a little, creating a suggestive effect.
Lascia un commento