I finally managed to go to the Canary Islands, a trip I’d been putting off for years and finally made a reality for about ten days. We chose Fuerteventura as the first island to visit, drawn by its long beaches and almost Caribbean-like colors, with plenty of golden sand and a rather barren landscape that offers unique and rare views.
As soon as we landed, I was truly surprised by its extreme dryness: it really is a place that feels like Mars, an almost alien environment! The air itself has an unusual smell, a scent I remembered only from the port of Barcelona. The sun was very high, as you’d expect, being almost 18° of latitude closer to the equator than Northern Italy. The heat was palpable, but the dry, cool trade winds made it pleasant.
Different landscapes as we travel around the island.
We rented a car, which turned out to be much more expensive than expected, mainly because of the comprehensive insurance, which is essential for exploring the island’s dirt roads. Despite everything, it was a good thing because at least we were covered in case of damage, avoiding having to leave a very large deposit. Arriving near Morro Jable wasn’t the best: the area, while seemingly quiet on paper, is full of concrete and tourist-oriented developments all around the historic center, which is still very liveable. Fortunately, our hotel was located a little further north, towards the end of this urban sprawl, offering a less chaotic view, though not entirely removed from mass tourism.
The ocean in the surroundings was truly beautiful, with endless stretches of sand and water colors reminiscent of the most coveted tropical destinations. However, the most stunning beaches, in my opinion, are in Costa Calma and Caleta de Fuste (although the latter is unfortunately a bit crowded with tourists).
Since I couldn’t capture all the beauty of Fuerteventura’s beaches, I refer you to a Google search: Costa Calma, Sotavento, Matorral.
It may not look like it here, but beaches are endless and the water shifts from light to deep blue.
The room, in one of the hotel’s many outdoor annexes, was spacious and had a very pleasant atmosphere, with white walls, dark wood, and terracotta floors: a Spanish colonial style that conveyed a sense of serenity. The first five days went well: we got used to the atmosphere and visited almost all the main sights, from the small, charming village of Puertito de la Cruz to the more famous Corralejo in the north, passing through various towns inland and on the coast.
Puertito de la Cruz (southernmost point of the Jandía peninsula).
Here, however, I must make a somewhat bitter reflection: mass tourism has caused a lot of damage, in my opinion. While some inland towns (among the most famous: La Oliva, Betancuria and Antigua) still retain an authentic charm, those on the coast have been devastated by uncontrolled development. Corralejo, Caleta de Fustes, Puerto del Rosario, and parts of Morro Jable resemble Las Vegas in the desert: out-of-place constructions have stripped these places of character and transformed them into anonymous non-places. The problems are not only landscape-related, but also social: speaking with Italians who live and work on the island, we gathered a negative picture. The recovery of tourism after the pandemic has led to an uncontrolled increase in tourist flows, with dire consequences for the local population.
House prices have skyrocketed, often purchased by private individuals and real estate funds to convert into vacation homes or accommodations, leaving many residents forced to live in caravans. The prices of basic goods have also increased, while wages have stagnated, making it difficult to maintain a standard of living. Gasoline is cheaper than in Italy, but not as significantly as one might think. In short, life for those who live on the island is no longer the affordable dream that many imagined.
The rampant cementification surrounding the historic center of Morro Jable.
Furthermore, tourist entertainment, ranging from excursions to raft and sports equipment rentals, isn’t as cheap as you might expect. In short, the Canary Islands no longer seem like the El Dorado of a consistently warm and affordable place.
Yet the locals remain virtually always kind and friendly to tourists, without any real discrimination, even though in remote areas you rarely see murals with anti-tourism slogans, such as “tourism = colonialism.” We, as tourists, however, have often perceived more exclusionary attitudes from the tourists themselves, particularly the English and Germans, who dominate the flow and with whom it’s so difficult to exchange a few spontaneous words that it’s almost easier to find a needle in a haystack. We encountered very few Italian tourists (in the south), and they often thought they owned the hotel.
A view of the historic center of Morro Jable.
Over the remaining five days, the stay became a little less pleasant: the sea, or rather the ocean, became rough, making the water a bit murky. The wind died down, and the heat became more intense, without the natural cooling relief of the trade winds that made everything more bearable. Hotel life became a bit monotonous, with loud music blasting from midday until night, and many tourists simply lounging near or in the pool. The few alternative activities, such as archery or darts, were always closed. The typical tourist probably prefers a more static vacation, without much physical or mental activity.
Luckily, we decided to take a trip to the Wildlife Oasis in the village of La Lajita, a greener and more humid area than the rest of the island, rich in plant species and populated by many animals. Here, you can admire, among others, the Nile crocodile, zebras, camels, dromedaries, emus, various species of monkeys, kangaroos, and various reptiles. The park is very large, and walking it all means walking more than 3 km, with ups and downs. It was a pleasant but also quite tiring experience: an excellent choice for a half-day or even a full day. The prices aren’t the cheapest, both for admission and for optional refreshments, but the experience is more than worth it.
The Wildlife Oasis, a great way to spend the day.
The night of our departure, we experienced something truly strange: the kalima, a very hot and dry wind, almost like a hair dryer turned on just inches from our faces. As we moved north the heat disappeared, but further south it was stifling (considering the geographical conformation of the Jandía Peninsula) so much so that driving with your arm out the window at 90 km/h you didn’t feel cold but hot.
In conclusion, what can I say about this first experience in the Canary Islands? I can’t give a clear judgment, either positive or negative. The Canary Islands are a borderland between tropical and temperate climates, with summers that are never too hot and winters that are never cold, where a sweatshirt in the coldest months is only necessary in the morning and evening.
Fuerteventura struck me with its dry, arid landscapes, dotted with previously unseen but fascinating bushes. The blue and azure of the ocean are the only colors that make the landscape lively and a little Caribbean. The interior seems like a mix of desert, Mexico, Texas, and those American Westerns, so much so that the island has been chosen as a filming location for several movies.
But be warned: Fuerteventura is by no means a desert devoid of vegetation. Near towns — even the smallest ones — there’s always greenery, making the landscape much more pleasant. Some areas, like Costa Calma or the Oasis Wildlife, are particularly rich in vegetation, so much so that they give the impression of being almost in the Caribbean.
Furthermore, a project has been under discussion for some time to make Fuerteventura even greener, using a system that would utilize natural humidity to irrigate plants. An absolutely feasible idea, if implemented correctly.
The road back from Corralejo: desert, rock, ocean, and arid terrain mix together.
I don’t know if I’d ever live here, but spending some time here gives me a sense of peace that few other places offer. Towns like La Oliva, Betancuria, Puertito de la Cruz, El Cotillo, a part of Morro Jable and all the almost Caribbean coasts maintain a particular atmosphere that words cannot describe.
If I could offer a tip for those seeking a quiet but not isolated stay, I’d suggest El Cotillo in the northwest or somewhere on the east coast a few kilometers from a major center (like Morro Jable or Costa Calma) where you can enjoy some relaxation. Additionally, I recommend including among your stops:
The splendid beaches of the east coast of the Jandía peninsula (Matorral, Sotavento, Costa Calma), of Corralejo and its Parque Natural and the black volcanic beach of Ajuy,
Puertito de la Cruz, accessible only via a 20 km dirt road (through the Parque Natural de Jandía), offers an atmosphere of isolation and harmony, with ocean views on one side and barren hills on the other. A truly unforgettable experience.
Lascia un commento