Lanzarote and La Graciosa: Expanses of Black and White

Of all the Canary Islands we visited, Lanzarote and La Graciosa were the ones that most disappointed us. Our expectations were quite high: we imagined an island similar to Fuerteventura, but with darker terrain, all-white houses, and a more refined atmosphere.
Instead, we quickly found ourselves bored and disinterested. I know those who loved Lanzarote might be annoyed by these words, but I can only express my sincere opinion.

👉 Also read: My Opinion on the Canary Islands

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Arriving at the airport named after César Manrique — the man who, in a certain sense, “shaped” the soul of the island — was actually very positive. It was almost nine o’clock in the evening, and the yellow lights illuminating the white facades of the houses created a truly evocative atmosphere. However, the favorable impression was short-lived. At the rental car, they handed us a rather ugly Panda Hybrid, which in retrospect can be considered the first sign of an unfortunate holiday. When we reached the hotel, tired, we nevertheless appreciated the view of Costa Teguise from the third floor and the tranquility of the surroundings, being about a kilometer from the town center.

The next day, we decided to explore the Costa Teguise coastline on foot. It must be said that, despite being a tourist destination, it’s fairly well-maintained and offers pleasant views. However, the uniform whiteness everywhere, especially under the high sun, was almost blinding and, after a while, annoying.

The day after again, we drove to the tourist town of Playa Blanca, in the south of the island. This is where the real problems began. On the way, we noticed that all the towns we passed through were terribly similar: the same uniform white, few truly distinctive buildings, and a dark landscape — very gloomy compared to Fuerteventura — which, contrasting with the white of the houses, created a rather unpleasant visual effect. Arriving in Playa Blanca, the spectacle left us speechless: an endless expanse of white, concrete-covered, uniform buildings, without any variety in style. Even though they aren’t high-rises, the visual impact was truly disappointing. The coastal area has a bit more character, but the beaches are small and the local food options are uninspiring.

On the way back, we stopped at Papagayo Beach, much smaller than it appears in photos and, honestly, not special enough to justify a visit, especially since it was extremely crowded and connected by a dirt road in poor condition. Overall, Lanzarote seemed overly crowded with tourists for its size. By the second day, we had already decided to return early: we reduced our stay from ten to seven nights.

Over the next few days, we visited the other towns and main attractions: Arrecife (the capital), Puerto del Carmen, Teguise, Timanfaya National Park, Jameos del Agua, the Cactus Garden, the Mirador del Río, El Golfo, Las Salinas, and Cueva de los Verdes. Some of these places are truly beautiful to see, but they are brief moments of fascination that aren’t enough to enhance the overall impression. Furthermore, the lines to get in were often very long, and the prices, in our opinion, were sometimes excessive.

The day before our departure, we decided to visit La Graciosa, departing from the port of Órzola. We had high hopes for this last stop, especially because the photos looked spectacular. Unfortunately, once again, reality didn’t match our expectations. Once we disembarked, we were disappointed by the dark backdrop, the overwhelming presence of tourists, and the numerous vacation rentals that ruined the atmosphere. To be honest, the island doesn’t look as special as the promotional images suggest. However, it must be said that La Graciosa’s beaches are numerous and very beautiful: this is undoubtedly its strong point. Otherwise, it just seemed like a “miniature Lanzarote.”

The last day was almost liberating: we couldn’t wait to leave. Unfortunately, the hotel also turned out to be dated, with several things in need of repair and the cleanliness of the common areas — including the restaurant — far from impeccable. It must be said, however, that the October climate in the Canary Islands is delightful: during the day, it feels like summer, while in the evenings it’s reminiscent of an Italian spring. The sun is as high as it is in May in Milan, and the wind, though present, isn’t too bothersome.

I’m sorry to have been disappointed by Lanzarote, but for my personal tastes, the island doesn’t offer much of interest. The blinding uniformity of the white buildings contrasting with the darkly hued landscape, the questionable overdevelopment of the tourist industry, and mass tourism — especially from England and Germany — make it difficult to truly feel immersed in an authentic place.

Another sore point is the food: it’s hard to find places that offer anything other than fried chicken, greasy sauces, or low-quality dishes. I’ve really missed Italian cuisine. If you were to visit Lanzarote, my advice is to rent an apartment and cook for yourself. Half-board or all-inclusive packages can be a real Russian roulette due to the uncertain quality.

In conclusion, Lanzarote—which we imagined could compete with Fuerteventura and perhaps surpass Gran Canaria—turned out to be, for us, the least fascinating island. If I had to summarize the impression it left on me, I’d say it resembles an open-air contemporary art museum. It’s not uncommon to stumble upon small installations, “artistic” elements, or aesthetic details scattered throughout the island: a collection that, however, doesn’t convey anything truly meaningful to me. In fact, in my opinion, it ends up trivializing the landscape.

This is, of course, my opinion: there are certainly those who appreciate this island more than I did.